Saturday, 20 July 2013

Ice-Pidgeon

I have been painting the new(ish) High Elf pheonix model - the ice version rather than the fire version. I've seen a number of them painted up and everyone seems to have gone for very similar paint schemes, none of which I liked very much. I found them quite boring and wasting alot of the detail on the model. I'm not going to link or display any here because I really doubt people will be happy for me to show their photos as examples of work I don't think is good.

I have of course got the GW studio pictures to hand. The Phoenix has two model types: flamespyre and frostheart. Original names I know. The model itself is gorgeous. Very well sculpted. Interesting, with a good balance of details across the span of the model and along it's length. It has enough unique elements to set it apart from the pre-existing griffon and flying models that are out there.

But the paint jobs are just so damn boring and minimum effort. I thought two things to moment I picked up the box; 'That's a really nice sculpt' and 'I can paint that better'.



Flamespyre Phoenix Side View



Flamespyre Phoenix Top View

Frostheart Phoenix Side View

Frostheart Phoenix Top View

It's all just really basic, dull shades with half hearted highlighting. Whats the point of having those details - the extra flame licks, the snowflakes, if you are just going to paint it the same as the surrounding model?

I went for the Frostheart model because I like the cold elements more and wanted to paint something not red after the ordeal that was my Ork Bomba a while ago.

Putting the model together was straightforward. No mold lines that were hard to remove - it seemed like they'd put some more thought into it than usual and everything was easy to scrape off without going around delicate details. Very sturdy as well. All the individual tails parts and feathers are firm and wont break easily.

I decided that although I liked the blue for the base colour I did not like how ... bland the original paint job looked, or how dull the base colours were.

Here's my current progress on the model. I know I am sorely lacking in technical skill compared to alot of the phoenix paint jobs out there, but I'm much happier with this design than the standard one. For each section I'll list the colours I used and how I painted it.


I left the model in sections because I wanted a couple of sharp colours changes without needing to masking tape hundreds of fiddly bits.

I started with the Vallejo model colour primer in white, applied in 3 fine, thinned layers with a airbrush. Then I laid down a basecoat of deep blue, again with the airbrush.


Then I used a turquoise colour (I started with hawk turqouise but changed to the VMC equivalent, much nicer paint) in the airbrush and sprayed it over the model at a 35 degree angle. I kept the paintbrush aimed as I usually do - for me this is angled diagonally down at the desk - and then tilted the model so the bottom of the feathers were pointed nearly straight down. I used light, quick coats. 

Doing it at an angle meant that there was a natural fade in the colour and it developed contrast and shadows straight away. I did this with progressively lightened shades of turquoise - made by adding in lighter turqouise paint and then a cream colour paint - and sprayed at a progressively sharper angle. The closer I was to the wing tips the more fine and delicate I made the spray. The sharpness of the shadows and strength of the contrast between the feathers did reduce but I knew I was going to bring it back with washes later on, so focused more on getting a pretty fade than precision application.



I didn't take many pictures of the step by step progress because I was having too much fun to stop painting. I applied this technique to the head as well, and the section of feathers that go into the indentation along the spine that you can see above. 

This image is a bit further alone in the paint process but illustrates the pieces that I'm talking about and how they look with the airbrushing applied. You can see as well; when I finished airbrushing them and began brushwork, I painted the tiny snowflakes in between the feathers in white. These details were neat but fiddly to get good coverage on with pooling or the patience of a saint. The helmet got a silver basecoat in advance of gryphon sepia and devlun mud washes to give it an old, majestic gold look. There's also a gloss coat because the paint was fragile. 

Next step was restoring the contrast and shadows. I diluted asurman blue wash about 1:2 or 1:3 wash:water and, using a 0 winsor and newton brush, applied it about a millimeter away from the overlap of the feathers and then drew the bristles up towards the corner where the layers met. I did this with minimal wash in my brush. You need a lot less than you think you do to get a meaningful amount of colour down. It is better to start of with less than it is to start with more and accidentally swamp the model. If this did happen, I just used a clean, tiny bit damp, fluffy paintbrush I had to the side and sponged it up. 

It took about three layers to build up proper shadows again. I knew the mixture was right and I was painting in the correct amount when the first bit I laid down was dry by the time I had worked it into the crevices on the rest of the wing. 

Again these pictures are from further along in the painting process but after the washes the shadows were left alone for the rest of the painting process. You can see where it goes into deep, softly blended shadows between each feathers and between each layer. I also added a few dabs of wash between some of the feathers on the top of the main body, but it was less necessary than on the wings because there is a much sharper transition between feathers on the back. 


 
 After I had re added the shadows I decided I wanted the outermost feathers to fade closer to a creamy, almost white turqouise colour. You can see this in the above pictures. It was just achieved by mixing light turouise (VMC) with cream paint and airbrushing on successive layers and occasionally adding a touch more cream to it.

This still didn't have enough detail or contrast for me so I decided to mix in some of my favourite painting style, that you've seen when I posted my garden of more WIPs. I diluted the cream colour I had been using about 1:3 paint to water. Using a winsor and newton 0 brush again I held the model so the feathers were pointing away from me. With a slow but steady hand I pulled the brush away from me on all the outside edges of the feathers. I did one layer on each feather before going back and repeating it. I also drew the highlights down the centre of feathers that had a prominent line sculpted into them.

It took 3 or 4 layers to get the strong, full cream colour coat. Now this meant that I had the lightest colour next to the darkest colour. It also meant I had a bit more than just 'airbrush blend' on the model. I was really pleased I had gotten my favoured painting style mixed into the more natural blending style.

This is what it looks like across the whole wing spread now. 



That's the state the body is currently in, and I'd say it's 95% finished. I applied the technique I'd used on the wings to the crest as well. 

I used a paintbrush to add in the last few turqouise blends, using thinned layers and a gradual increase of cream paint to keep the transition smooth as it is on the rest of the model. I couldn't do this part with the airbrush because the details were too fine. The shadows just got coloured in. I also reinforced the shadows here the same as I did on the wings. Then I took my trust W&N 0 and the cream paint again. This time I only thinned it 1:1. I had carefully loaded up on a small bit of paint and then brushed it out until the bristles were flat. Then I ran the flattened bristles perpendicular to the edges of each flick. I didn't paint it the same way as the feathers because these bits aren't flat and there was too big a chance I would slip a tiny bit and just paint white in the crevices.

I did this a few times, starting further up the section as I went so the white was stronger and lighter at the top. The final colour was still lighter than the white snowflakes though.

I used brushwork again to finish the highlights on the feathers of the head for the same reason as on the above piece. The helmet was heavily washed with devlin mud. When that had fully dried it received a layer of gryphon sepia. The top section was highlighted with a dense gold colour. This was washed again with gryphon sepia. The edges of the gold was blended in with careful, diluted layers of devlin mud and gryphon sepia painted starting just after the join and then pulled towards the outside of the model.

The eye was basecoated white, the tongue red, and the beak shadow grey. The raised sections of the eye area with painted with the lightest colour that had been used on the surrounding feathers, and dilute blue wash painted carefully into the creases.

 The wing tips were painted and scrubbed clean at least three times before I settled on a look I liked. I decided I saw them as magical extensions of the wing, not just extra long feathers. Like a magical, icey trail behind it. I wanted it to have a sharp colour change but still be within the same theme. Up until now I had use warm versions of all the colours I applied, or as warm as I could. I started with a mix of VMC emerald as the basecoat, to give a blue green tint to the most shadowed section and a contrast to the main model. Then I made up colder versions and started with a very pale mix of VMC blue-green and white. This was applied with an airbrush over a couple of layers. 

This was then switched for a nearly pure white, thinned with water and medium until it was translucent. I airbrushed this onto the last 1/5 of the feathers. I started at the furthest part of each tip and gradually made my way inwards using very delicate and very fast movements with the brush. I kept angling the piece when I airbrushed it like I had done with the body before, to make sure I caught the lightest colours on the edges and left the darkest shades in the deepest parts. 

I was originally going to paint the snowflakes here white but thought it look too boring against the pale background. I decided I would paint the smaller ones white - as I had done on the front section of the model - and paint the larger ones gold to match the armour on the model. I didn't think I would be able to paint them silver and then wash them without having to painstakingly draw lots of thinned wash layers over each one, so decided to go with a straight gold from VMC. This turned out to be too bright compared to the helmet so I have ended up spending hours colouring them in with mud and sepia washes anyway. The golds are slowly starting to match though!


 I have found it almost impossible to photograph this section properly. I need to get a couple of extra lights then put it on a dark background I think - everything is too washed out with a light background. For now I guess this shows it off fine.

I redid the same things with the shadows as I did earlier - this time with the wash very heavily diluted and with a tiny touch of green in. Disaster struck when I was painting one of the wings. My asurman blue had died without my realising and as a result I painted speckly, grainy blue into the shadows of one wing. It looked awful. I had to repaint alot of the wing - and all the blending - by hand using a tiny paintbrush. It was awful! I was actually holding them over the dettol tub about to drop them both in - because the blue wash had made it look so bad - but stopped myself at the last second.

I was quite chuffed though. When I have the right set up I'll photo them both side by side. You can only see the difference looking very closely. The power of hundreds of thing layers!

That's where I'm at so far.

The tail section is currently bare plastic. I had it partally painted and then accidentally washed over something with the wrong mix and ruined it. It has since been for a swim in dettol and scrubbed clean, just waiting to be sprayed again.

The final details; gems, armour, eyes, etc will be painted over the following week. Check back soon!

Tuesday, 9 April 2013

Tomb Raider

I have been very distracted by the new Tomb Raider game, and finding my copy of Xenoblade Chornicles. I'm going to be doing LPs of both so it's going to steal some more time away from all this.

I am working on a new blog/site too - that will have all my stuff on it. So the LPs, the painting, the articles, the artwork I'm doing. It will be snazzy.

Keep painting!

Oh and buy the new Tomb Raider. Goddamn I can't remember the last time I felt this powerful and awesome playing a female character.

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

Reaper Bones Megaset

This is just a quick post about the Reaper Bones megaset.

If you don't know, Reaper launched a massive kickstarter to help launch their line of bendy plastic models. The idea was that they wanted to return to cheaper, but still good quality, models. The kickstarter allowed you to 'purchase' a massive set for incredibly cheap.

General cool guy goon Invictus has a set of 'Vampire' level pledges which includes all of the following models for sale at his ebay account here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REAPER-BONES-KICKSTARTER-VAMPIRE-LEVEL-240-MINIATURES-1150-VALUE-FREE-SHIPPING-/121089567624?pt=Games_US&hash=item1c31802b88


Sunday, 31 March 2013

New (Tiny) Faces of Wargaming (Part One)


For most people the face of miniature wargaming is Games Workshop. It’s the only company with dedicated shops in most towns and shopping centres. As a commercial entity, and as a set of gaming systems, GW and all associated works has upsides and downsides. Until recently there were not many contenders to the warhammer throne. Miniatures are expensive: especially playing in game systems where you are required to have models painted and based to be allowed to use them. Not just expensive for gamers, but for people wanting to start their own companies and game systems up with the already established warhammer behemoth looming over them.

But with the serious push from crowd sourced funding reducing the personal funding needed, the steady state of recession making people look for higher quality for their money, and developments in the technology involved in sculpting and casting miniatures making it cheaper and easier to provide that quality, a new wave of games and miniature companies to step forward.

I’ve been poking around and looking at what companies (new and already established) have been pushing forward in the last year or so with new game systems and models. I’m still 100% a painter – so I can’t comment on the quality of the proposed gameplay – but I’ve tried to gather together work that looks interesting or unique.

Some are from big, established companies, Some are from new individuals. Some you will have seen or heard of, but hopefully there will be some new and interesting things in here for everyone.
Basically it’s a description of the gameplay, features and models that caught my eye for either good or bad reasons, and reviews from people who’ve got them. The article looks long because – as usual – there’s hundreds of pictures.

There's actually a hell of alot of this kindof stuff going on

Sedition Wars: Battle for Alabaster – Minis and game

Let’s start with one of the biggest, which I can’t stop calling Battle for Sebastian.

A non-sexualised girl and a black guy on the cover. It is awesome :)

 
Sedition Wars: Battle for Alabaster is a skirmish based sci-fi/horror miniature game created by Studio McVey, published by Cool Mini or Not and funded using Kickstarter. It – alongside the original Zombicide game – was one of the first tabletop gaming entries to completely explode through the crowdfunding model. They started with a goal of $20,000 to get the basic game boxset into production. This included (to begin with) 50 miniatures, board to play on, tokens and stat cards. They were fully funded within six hours of starting.

After that they added wave after wave of stretch goals. More and more miniatures were added to each reward level. More parts of the game and planned expansions were revealed. Materials were upgraded from cardboard to plastic, different varieties of models became available and so on.
They posted their design ideas, rough drafts and concept art, stories. Kept updating on how the commercial side of the process was going. It wasn’t all smooth sailing – there were delays and a couple of upsets in production and delivery – but now the kickstarter seems to have been a booming success for them even as it flew past their expectations.
It finished with over 4000 backers and nearly $1,000,000 total pledged.

A large part of this success was not only because of the quality of product and IP on display. Studio McVey are already very well established in the miniature business community. Both Ali and Mike McVey have been professional painters and sculptors for years, and have previous experience not only working for miniature companies (Games Workshop) but also building a company with new IP (Privateer Press, Warmachine/Hordes). ‘Studio McVey’ exists as well as a site they display and sell unique sculpts to be collected and painted – not associated with any gaming systems but instead with the hobby itself.

Ali McVey is one of my favourite sculptors and painters


I went in for the Kickstarter and bought a number of things including the base boxed game. When everything has finished turning up I will do a separate post on the sets as a whole. Skirmish based miniature games are really trying to push their way to the front at the moment. Not only are games trying to distinguish themselves with better quality materials, sculpts, and accessibility but with how long the games actually take to play. One consistent problem with miniature wargaming is the length of time required for proper games and matches to be played. Pretty much every game I’m going to cover in this makes a point of how you don’t need hours upon hours free to get good use out of them.

Battle for Alabaster is one of the games coming forward as something you can play as part of an afternoons activities – not as what your whole afternoon with friends is going to be. 

I’ll let the ‘gameplay’ videos sit here and speak for themselves if you are interested. I’ve tried to dig about and find people’s opinions of the actual gaming side of each set as well.





Sedition Wars describes its battle system as being more involving at the same time as being simpler than your current average wargame. The rules reflect this. It comes with a neat little colour booklet describing gameplay with examples, and each model comes with a little graphic card describing their stats and gameplay. There’s no large expensive book to buy for the core game and then expansion books to buy to be able to play a specific force.

I really like this about Sedition Wars and the other games taking the same approach. I have always felt very put off, and more than a little annoyed, that to play officially with the expensive models I had bought and spent hours prepping I would also have to spend lots of money and time on books and all that word learnin’ stuff. Reading? I think it’s called reading. I’m dictating this article to a typewriting monkey.

I know the use of decks and short rule books isn’t new and certainly not being lead by Sedition Wars, but this is the first time I’ve had the option sat in front of me and I am finding myself going ‘Yeah I might actually try this’. Normally I sit in front of a GW model I’ve painted for 40 hours and the idea of learning how many dice I roll to see if the matt varnish frosts makes me want to fling it out a window.

I don’t know want to have a bit of my brain permanently taken up by knowing that a level 4 arch-lich rolls a d6 to mindflay someone or whatever. I don’t want to flick through a book to find it in the middle of a game either. Looking down at the table to a little card with my happy little liche’s face and stats on? That sounds good. 

Gameplay is very much a bonus for me though, and what really drew me into the kickstarter and made me put my (parent’s) money where their paypal account is was the design and sculpts.

Two things;

They are all really cool and the art direction is fantastic.

Lots of female miniatures with nary a sign of Tits McGee, the physically impossible imaginary girlfriend of men who have never touched a really woman, or even a fake one bigger than 1 inch.

The bad guys in the game follow the trend that everything seems to have fallen for at the moment. Variations of infected/zombies/parasites seem to be the only bad guy available for gaming this year. There’s enough spin on the design to keep them interesting and different though. The McVeys also produced some painted versions of all their miniatures at the beginning to showcase what could be done with them.

 
Examples from the initial Kickstarter post

The bare sculpts all looked very clean, finely detailed and offered something different to the standard. Everything was more in proportion and less clumpy than GW type models. Even the most sexualised model - the bottom left monster figure in the image above - isn't suffering from boobitus.

Painted models from the Kickstarter post
And here they all are in their pretty studio paint jobs. Despite being out for a couple of months I really can't find any painted up models from the set outside of the company's own. Ali McVey has painted up a couple of gorgeous versions of the main character 'Kara Black'.













Zombicide - Minis and Game




Crowdfunding Dates – May 6, 2012.

 Goal Funding – $20,000

Received Funding – $781,597

Backers - 5258


Zombicide was the first really big miniature game that grabbed everyones attention through Kickstarter. Not just gamers but anyone looking into the crowd funding model. Another product published by Cool Mini or Not, created by Guillotine games. It’s the first output from the company, but not the first work from the people in it. The head honchos are a collection of Rackham veterans including ones who worked on Confrontation.

I’ve looked up the guys they list but can’t immediately find any of their work. The best that pops up is this when I type in Jean-Baptiste Lullien 


Possibly not the person we're thinking of

I should have written this one first but I guess I was biased by my ownership of Sedition Wars. It’s so pretty…

Anyway. Zombicide had similar selling points. It was presented as an all in one box set game – everything you needed to play in one box including 71 miniatures, gaming tiles, tokens, deck of cards for gameplay and of course the rules. It was short, offering several difficulty levels with games lasting between half an hour and three hours. It also came with a couple of different game modes and scenarios. You can actually view a number of them on this page:



You may notice something else on this page: an editor! They also released an editor for designing and changing scenarios and maps, and blank item and character cards. I will have to shuffle about and find someone that has actually used it. In principle I think it’s quite nifty and a good inclusion. It has the official artwork and objects of the game. 

No matter the quality of the base game, not only allowing but enabling players to make their own ‘versions’ is a good thing in my opinion. Even if the groundwork is poor it lets people take the parts they like and produce more (possibly improved) improved content and share it. I think it shows a better side to the initial creators in that they want to share the whole world with the players, not just the parts they produce for money. 

Here’s some reviews and coverage of gameplay. 







I have had the opportunity to peruse a copy of Zombicide at my local nerd-games store. The minis are slightly more bendy than normal plastic which was odd. They are described as being 28mm ‘heroic’ scale miniatures but this is as arbitrary a descriptor as usual. The human models are a little smaller in all dimensions than a standard human GW figure. This image from the kickstarter page shows some of the player models and zombie models next to a space marine. Not the most useful comparison but better than nothing I suppose! 





It is quite a nifty, sturdy set in person like the Sedition Wars one. 

The majority consensus on Zombicide seems to be that the game itself is somewhat lackluster. People have had fun but overall say it’s not as good as it could be and its popularity somewhat outstrips the quality of the gameplay. But as far as price per mini goes it’s quite good.  

Esteemed goon colleague posted about his groups' positive experience with the game in a thread:

King Burgundy:

"Reasons my group loves it:

1) Cooperative. Cooperative games are a bonus for a few of our players who prefer those games to the more cutthroat ones we rotate through.
2) The feel of playing it really does evoke a lot of the same scenarios one would expect in a zombie movie. Dilemma's like splitting up or staying together based on the scenario you are playing, being overwhelmed, etc.
3) Turns go pretty quick, not a lot of waiting around, very easy to learn and play. One of our regulars is really not the type that would play a normal miniatures style game like 40k and as a result I was worried he wouldn't be in to this either, but he loved it. It may end up being a bit of a gateway game.
4) The survivors are a pretty fun lot to play as, quite a few nods to pop culture, it lends itself to a lot of fun around the table, trash talk, etc. Oh, and like suggested above, our group DOES love pop culture reference chars/zombies, so that definitely plays a part.
5) It's difficult, depending on the scenario, you can't just blaze through it and expect to win, but not soul crushingly so, like Arkham Horror.
6) Plenty of leeway for designing your own scenarios and adjusting things to increase or decrease the difficulty or change the way the game plays.  "


In general Zombicide tried to push a 'pulp' aesthetic. Pretty much every player character is a reference to either a particular character or stereotype.


As you can see the basic player set include rifle toting old guy, asian girl with katana, and a... skating waitress with a chainsaw. They also produced Sheldon from Big Bang Theory and Machete from... Machete as stretch goal models.

Ofcourse the Maxican model is in brown plastic.

Big Bang Theory is a terrible show. I would get Sheldon eaten by zombies everytime.
The game was successful enough that they have launched a second 'season' of zombicide, as well as an add on pack compatible with either the first or second main boxed game. This is out as another kickstarter and includes tens more referential characters with every one from Shaun (Shaun of the Dead) to Hannibal Lecter (Ancient Carthaginian).




http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/coolminiornot/zombicide-season-2