Guide - Brushes

Unless you are very determined and in possession of tiny hairy fingers, you'll be in need of at least one decent brush. And you'll need to buy one, unless you are another type of determined and fashion one yourself from a small twig and some nostril hairs. Below is a breakdown of the scary world of brushes - types, applications, brands and prices. Brush care and maintenance will be taken on at a different point, probably in its own guide.

Anatomy of a Brush

The furry part of the brush is the bristles - unless it's still attached in which case its the 'tail'. The part you hold is the handle. These are made from everything from wood to metal to rubber. The middle part is the 'ferrule' this attaches the bristles to the handle. It's usually made of metal but sometimes of plastic or cloth.

ADD PICTURE OF BRUSH WITH LABELS

Brush Terminology

Snap -



Bristles

Bristles can be divided into two main categories; synthetic and non-synthetic (natural). Each can be divided further into more subcategories based on what they are used for, shape, and source/material. You don't need to know much if you're just doing miniature painting.

Synthetic

These types are generally considered inferior to natural brushes. They don't hold paint as well, they don't hold as sharp a paint and after a while the tip will 'curl' eliminating any form of point at all. Despite this synthetic brushes do have their uses. Drybrushing, metallic paint work, and basecoating large areas are all better suited to synthetic brushes. They are stiffer and cheaper than their natural counterparts.

Metallic paints are best used with inexpensive or synthetic brushes because they contain microflakes of metal. These are harsh on bristles. It's best not to ruin your more expensive brushes with them!

Natural

Made from the bristles or hairs of animals. Often the hairs/fur used are taken from slaughtered animals, although occasionally they are sourced by brushing farmed animals. It depends on which make you buy them from. However, those animals that are killed are often used for food, glues, and so on. Especially amongst the better brands tiny critters aren't just killed so you can have a fancy brush - your bristles are the by product of that animal dying and being used completely, not the cause.

Natural bristles have better snap, points, reservoirs and are better at not leaving brush marks through paint.

The one most appropriate to miniature painting are watercolour brushes made from the winter coat of sable or kolinsky sable hair - weasels! Red sable brushes are good for basecoating and large things like tanks. They are much cheaper than kolinsky, but don't hold a point very well at all. Kolinsky sable brushes are the be all and end all of tiny painting. They can be very expensive - luckily since we're only miniature painting you don't need to get anything above a size 1! Even an abused kolinsky sable brush can last years, one looked after properly will last tens of years.

Types

'Standard Brush'

The standard brush is just one you use for applying colour to general areas. The tend to be about a couple of millimetres across (or size 1), and should have a point. For general use a natural bristle one is best. Having a couple can be handy, but not necessary. These should cost a few pounds at least, more if you get a proper KS one.

Drybrush

A brush used for the drybrush technique. Bristles should be stiff, synthetic or made from tougher bristles like ox hair or hog hair, and flat topped. Drybrushes should be suitable for harsh treatment! A couple of pounds max, and a couple of sizes can be handy but not necessary at all unless you are doing vehicles. If you only get one go for medium, a couple of pounds at most.

Wash Brush

A fluffy brush with a large resevoir for holding lots of wash. Soft to aid in application. No good for precision work - but if you only want to apply a tiny bit of wash to a small area a detail or pointed brush is fine. Wash brush can be nice to have but isn't necessary unless you are doing lots of it and don't have another brush with a larger volume. Natural bristles are much, much better for this. Should only cost a few pounds.

Stippling Brush

Much like the drybrush, except the bristles tend to be shorter so they hold firmer against the stippling motion. Stippling brushes can be flat topped or lightly domed based on what look you're going for. Another brush that is nice if you want it but a painted can live without. Stippling brushes should be made of something tough as well so that you can stipple firmly. Again, only a few pounds!

Detail Brush

Just a brush that is small enough to brush on the details of the model. How small you want it depends on how small your details are. Generally a size 0 brush is good for most detail work, with people using 00 to 000 for eyes. Any smaller isn't necessary until you get to crazy levels of painting. A good detail brush should be natural, like a standard brush. The quality of the point is even more important here - a tiny brush that splays everywhere is no good! Even if your other brushes aren't, it's worth getting a proper KS brush for detail work. Anywhere from £3-£8 depending on quality.

Brands

Citadel/Games Workshop

Adequate, overpriced. What citadel provide you can get better elsewhere at a similar price. Their new brushes are an improvement, with some actually being sable or bristle/synthetic mixes. Like a lot of things from GW though quality is unreliable, price is unreasonable.

Only buy a GW brush if you can see it has a perfect point in the tube (not applicable to drybrushes, etc obviously) and if you want a basecoating type brush. Don't bother if you're looking for a detail brush. The old drybrushes (smaller, synthetic ones) are relatively decent and can last a long time with rough usage. I'm not sure about the new one, but it is a good size for base drybrushing and scenery.

Winsor and Newton - Series 7

Pretty much the brush for anyone who... well, anyone who paints miniatures. Even if you're not aiming to be the next golden demon winner a Winsor and Newton (or equivalent) brush is a worthy investment. The price can seem steep - a size 1 brush being about £10 - but W&N series 7 Kolinsky Sable brushes have outstanding snap, points and longevity. Even if you abuse them they will last longer than most other brushes you treat like royalty.

If on a budget, my suggestion is to get either a 0 or 00 sized brushes. You can find other size 1 brushes to use in the interim that aren't so expensive, but the fine point and reliability of the smaller brushes is unparalleled. No need to go any smaller - the point will be about the same size but you will loose resevoire volume.

If you're on a budget and still want to get a few Winsor and Newton now make miniature series 7 brushes. I haven't tried them myself but apparently they are exactly the same but with a different price tag (lower) and the sizes are scaled (lower, so size miniature 1 is normal size 00 or something).

Winsor and Newton - Galleria

Da Vinci